Second Battle of Manassas (Manassas National Battlefield, VA)

It was late August in 1862 when Stonewall Jackson and his men captured Federal commander John Pope's supply depot in Manassas junction. Pope, upon finding out the news, abandoned his post behind the Rappahannock to pursue Jackson, who had slipped away and took up position near the battlefield of the first battle of Bull Run.

Jackson struck a lone Union division near Brawner Farm on the evening of August 28th, knowing that General Robert Lee and his contingent of soldiers would arrive the next day. Pope commanded his forces, already scattered, to slowly attack Jackson's, who were positioned along an unfinished railroad on August 29th. Pope's forces were able to penetrate Jackson's forces, but were driven back each time. Lee arrived late in the morning with hopes to use Longstreet's forces for a flanking maneuver, but Longstreet persuaded Lee that the attack wasn't favorable. 

The next day, Pope was conflicted, as his intelligence could not tell him exactly what the Confederates were doing. He decided that they were retreating, so around midday, he ordered an attack that soon ended when his forces encountered Jackson's hidden forces along the unfinished railroad, resulting in a major assault on Jackson's line. At Deep Cut, a section of the unfinished railroad that was still just a hole, the two union forces tried to attack the right flank. Porter's corps traversed the fields of Dogan Farm while Hatch's brigade were stuck at the railroad embankmant after crossing a brief stretch of exposed ground. Some of the  Confederates were getting low on ammunition, so they were forced to hurl rocks at the Union soldiers, resulting in a large rock fight simply to defend their position. Finally, help for the Confederates arrived as a fresh brigade of A. P. Hill's division forced the Union force to flee. Porter's corps suffered severe tragedies during the retreat, leaving behind heaps of their dead. Jackson, too exhausted, was unable to organize a rapid pursuit of the retreating Union soldiers, allowing Porter to secure a position north of Warrenton Turnpike.

Confederates throwing rocks
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At Chinn Ridge, the Union forces under Irvin McDowell, who feared for Porter and his men's safety, tried to build a defense. McDowell made a severe tactical mistake when he ordered Reynold to move his men across the turnpike, leaving only 2,200 men to oppose more than ten times that many Confederates. 

Lee and Longstreet, hearing the news, schemed a massive attack against the Union left, with Longstreet's division heading toward Henry Hill to cut off the Union escape while Confederate leader John Bell Hood and his Texans opposed the Tenth and Fifth New York Zouaves. The thousand men deployed in skirmish formation along Lewis Lane, almost annihilating the regiment, killing the most men in ten minutes of any regiment in a single battle throughout the entire Civil War.

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At this point, Pope and McDowell finally understood the consequences of their mistaken strategies and tried to salvage the battle to save the rest of their army. Pope ordered the Union soldiers to occupy Henry Hill, which took a considerable time. Pope ordered Nathaniel McLean and his Ohioans to purchase time by firing their artillery on the Confederates as they advanced from the grim slopes of Chinn Ridge. 

Hood, in order to recapture the Confederates' momentum, ordered Evans to shift his regiment to the south and towards the Union's left flank. Unfortunately, Mclean deployed two of his units, forcing Evans to regroup in some piney woods. The Union line held, for the moment. 

Montgomery Corse, a former milita officer from Alexandria, came to the Confederates' rescue by approaching Evans at a right angle. Due to the dark uniform of the Virginia Brigade, the Ohioans of McClean mistook them as friends, allowing them to get closer without any opposition until they realized their error. Suddenly, the Ohioans started to fire and battle commenced at point-blank range for ten minutes, until a Louisiana artillery battery joined in the foray, collapsing McLean's line at last.

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Meanwhile, Longstreet needed help to obtain Henry Hill from the Federals. Lee decided to move soldiers from Brawner Farm; however, several commands couldn't make it in time, including Hood who was still in combat at Chinn Ridge. Neighbor Jones took up the responsibility and sent G.T. Anderson and Benning's Georgians, who unfortunately lacked discipline. The Union line was able to use that lack of cohesion to halt the Confederates with firepower. Although other commanders came to help and Lee's goal of Henry Hill could have been accomplished, Anderson stalled for an unknown reason, resulting in a squandered opportunity that was earned by several hours of fierce fighting.

Finally, on September 1st, the Confederates tried to flank Pope as he retreated, resulting in a bloody fight at Chantilly on Ox Hill. The Union quickly retreated toward Washington defenses, giving Lee the chance to lead his army across the Potomac and into Maryland for the Confederates' first chance to bring the fight to the North.

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The Second Battle of Manassas became the most costly battle of the Civil War, with thousands of men killed and wounded. The ground was littered with the unburied dead, while those who fought hurried to the next battle. Abraham Lincoln ended John Pope's Civil War career afterwards, giving his combined forces to McClellan.

General John Pope
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As I entered the Manassas National Battleground on October 14, 2014, a little over 152 years later, I decided to hike the Second Battle of Manassas. It's a 6.2-mile trek through some of the major positions of the battle, including Chinn Ridge and the unfinished railroad. Again, I grabbed my trail map for Manassas at the visitor center and set off.

It was a perfect day for the most part. There was a nice steady breeze that forewarned of a cold front coming in the following day. Tall, gray clouds crept along the mountainous horizon, but no rain was in the forecast. Cerulean skies peeped occasionally as the sun baked away clouds.

I first headed back along the First Manassas trail, bypassing Judith Carter's gravesite and a line of cannon as I headed to Route 29. It was a slight downhill section at this point, warming up my body for the uphill climb that followed. I crossed Route 29 and passed the Stone House, mentioned here in my first visit, and continued to climb up to Henry Hill, a pivotal plateau for both Manassas battles and a wonderful spot to really imagine soldiers trying to obtain such a great vantage point.

 On the downhill slope, I admired the first signs of fall. The colors blazing away as the clouds rolled past the sun. At this point, there was a junction where three trails crossed: the First Manassas Trail, Henry Loop Trail, and the Second Manassas Trail. I knew the latter was the one I needed, as I had already been on the first two, so I continued walking to the parking lot that led to the Second Manassas Trail.

 At first, I thought the trail simply ended, finding no real blazes to lead the way. I roamed the parking lot before thinking about heading back to the visitor center to ask for directions when I noticed a small sign, obscured by the sawgrass, pointing to the direction across Sudley Road.

After cautiously crossing Sudley Road, as there was no crosswalk, I picked up the muddy trail, dodging the horse manure that littered the trail. At this point, the Second Manassas Trail and the Bridle Trail merged and remained so for most of the hike. The mud made the hike a little more treacherous and exhausting, but still enjoyable.

The Second Manassas Trail opened up once I crossed the street, and I could see hawks floating serenely overhead on the thermals, twirling gracefully higher and higher. The clouds broke apart a little, silhouetting them against the sky.

After walking for a quarter of a mile in the open field, I heard galloping behind me as a man and his beautiful black mare ran around a bend. He reigned in, saluted me, and passed along my left. After being far enough away, he kicked his horse back into a gallop and disappeared along the lane that we had just entered. I tried to take a picture of them as they sped down the lane, but I was too slow.

Walking down the lane, I found this picturesque.

The lane ended in a deciduous wood, the horse trail veered off, and I was left on a slick, leaf-strewn path with the autumn leaves rustling in the slight breeze. The humidity was a little thicker here, with the trees more enclosed. I heard the scampering of squirrel feet and saw snippets of deer as they fled from my approach. In solitude, I found my inner peace.

I found myself in another parking lot, with the unfinished railroad loop heading off to the right. I meandered a little towards the unfinished railroad, but didn't do the entire loop. I started to really feel the echoes of the battle that had occurred, goosebumps prickling my flesh as I read the signage that told the story.

I left the unfinished railroad loop, skirting the parking lot, and headed back into the woods on the left. Here and there, rocks and boulders peeked out of the leaf litter, catching me unawares as my mind drifted to the battle that happened, wondering if this was Jackson's entire line strewn like the leaves. I bypassed several tall trees with the Witness Tree signs, meaning that these trees were old enough to actually have been in the battle's background. If only those trees could tell their story.

Random lichen/mushroom at the bottom of the sign reminds me of a green snowman

Suddenly, the trail opened on the left side to an expanse of exposed ground with slight steps leading up to an embankment. Large rocks were scattered along both sides. I then realized that this is where the infamous rock fight began -- where the Confederates had run out of ammunition and Porter abandoned his initiative. The knowledge that hundreds of Union soldiers were killed and abandoned here sent chills down my spine.

I then followed the trail into the exposed area of field towards Brawner Farm, which I had sadly missed, and towards Deep Cut Loop. The sawgrass waved, golden brown, in the breeze. Some areas reached over the top of my head. I imagined being a soldier, trying to navigate the tall grass while dodging artillery fire.

I soon found myself in front of a monument, looming out of the exposed ground like a monolith. The obelisk was erected by the Union soldiers in memory of the hundreds who had fallen. I could not determine if these were the ill-fated Porter men who were killed upon retreat or another brigade. Still, knowing that men had died to defend their beliefs made me pause.

The trail turned and meandered through the tall grass, leading to another little lane next to the road. The lane was bordered by trees on one side and the old farm-style fence on the other. The Bridle Trail for horses merged back on and I had to again watch my step, failing at one point on top of a small bridge that covered a little brook.

The lane ended at Route 29, where you have to cross cautiously once again after viewing the Dogan House. The trail picked back up along another exposed field, where a monument sat in the distance. I had hoped that the trail would go past the monolith so that I could see for whom it was erected, but, unfortunately, it snaked away in the other direction. It, also, led away from the Groveton Confederate Cemetery, a place I wanted to also visit.

The trail then led to New York Avenue, where the New York Zouaves were routed and almost annihilated. Stone monuments stood for both the third and fifth New York regiments, honoring the hundreds who lost their lives because of a tactical error.

I silently left, following the trail into the woods again, passing several more witness trees in the process. The autumn leaves fluttered down, raining silently on my head, as I somberly walked through the woods, lifting my spirits as I caught a few in mid-flight. I crossed Young's Branch and turned onto the Chinn Ridge Trail, mainly to skip out on the manure that still littered the Second Manassas Trail.

I emerged from the woods into another open field with hay bales strategically placed every few hundred yards. I had finally reached Chinn Ridge after 5.5 miles of walking. I read some of the historical signs, then walked over to the ruins of Hazel Plain. In the distance, the Hooes family cemetery sat, alone and quiet.

I jumped back onto the Second Manassas Trail as it merged with the Chinn Ridge Trail, following it up to a large rock and monument before a lone field. The rock was a monument for Colonel Fletcher Webster, who led the 12th Massachusetts volunteers. The small obelisk, recently erected, was for the Texans who gave up their lives to fight a war far away from home.

Finally, I descended a small hill between two trees and reached the road back to the visitor center. Along the way, I met two ladies with their very beautiful German Shepherds, who bounded towards me for some attention. I talked a little with them, then crossed Sudley Road and got back to my car. 

This hike was a beautiful hike -- my favorite between the two Manassas Trails. Although somber and chilling at times, I was able to fully enjoy the scenery and the history that the National Park had. I definitely plan on returning, reading more of the historical signage, and using this trail as one of my go-to trails. Wonderful! 

National Zoological Park (Washington, D.C.)

Sometimes the nine-year old wants to come out when I go on a walk or hike. Sometimes it is raining and I want to just twirl underneath the clouds, catching raindrops on my tongue, and singing like Gene Kelly. Sometimes, I am just wanting a kid-friendly venue where I can run around like a little banshee or learn something new, so I did both at the National Zoo in Washington, D.C.

The decision was made when I realized that I was going to spend the morning with a coworker after she got off of work in Woodley Park which is right there near the zoo. We had a wonderful breakfast at Tryst in Adams Morgan then walked back to Woodley park where we got sushi and plum wine for lunch at Tono's. We hung around a while at Tono before parting ways so that she can go to sleep before her next shift. I had the rest of the day to meander where ever I pleased.

It was drizzling as I walked up to the zoo entrance -- most of the families with small children were streaming out back to their cars. I seem to have the park to myself which is a rare treat. I first headed to the visitor center where I found the daily schedule. Unfortunately, I missed most of the ongoings of the zoo, except those that were cancelled due to the rain.

Due to the cool weather, animals who are normally seen lounging away, basking in the sun where more alive and playful. As I veered off the main walkway, Omlstead Way, I got to see the Cheetahs pacing around their enclosure, chasing each other  and climbing on tree stumps as they enjoyed the cooler air, purring loudly.

I continued to walk around the bend, towards the back half of the enclosures where the cheetahs were and, suddenly, I had come face-to-face with another cheetah who was pacing the back fence, trying to find another way into the inside enclosure. It grumbled and huffed as it made walked back and forth like a grumpy old man who was kicked out of his house by a cranky wife.

Continuing on the African side of the zoo, I met with a wild boar who ambled rather quickly through the exhibit, kicking up leaves and grass as it routed in the ground. It splashed itself with some water that ran along the ditch before the fence for onlookers then headed back up to explore other areas. It didn't even register that I was there, taking pictures and muttering about my camera's battery dying.

Next came the sleek gazelles who frolicked within their exhibit, freaking out the lone condor that perched itself on a stump. Some small children shrieked as the condor spread his wings and called out in a harsh squawk. I pondered how the zoo managed to keep the condor from riding the thermals and escaping, since the enclosure was open to the sky.

On the last exhibit for the smaller African animals, I saw a strange flightless bird with a hollow horn on top of its head. It squaring off with the small children who spoke loudly and shook the wired fence, probably hoping that those small fingers would get close enough to peck at. Another hornbill was playing with a large group of logs, stabbing them with its long beak and breaking chunks off.

The National Zoo, also, has a new exhibit; although, the enclosure is a little small for what it contains. Inside, were two American Bison -- two pure-bred females which has become quite rare due to the number of bison mating with cattle in the wild. They were beautiful, smaller than I expected. The volunteer, who watched every move for the behavioral sciencist, said that both were only about a year old, so they had plenty of time to grow. The zoo was very proud of the acquisition since the American Bison was the animal that was first given to the Smithsonian to establish a living museum of sorts back forty years ago.

I decided to go along the Asian Trail to see if I might be able to glimpse the giant pandas. They were not in their outdoor enclosure, a monstrous hilly exhibit that would probably make it hard for anyone to spot a giant panda, let alone the baby. I hoped that maybe they were inside due to the rain so headed in. There were signs stating that the inside enclosure would close at 4:30, so be prepared, on busy days, to get there no later than 2:30. Wow...for a panda.....

I, then, wandered off the Asian trail and headed towards the avian house. I am not the most bird loving of people, but I find some are graceful and majestic in their own way. There were two areas were you can walk into the enclosure and watch birds flit over your head. The more exotic birds and random ducks were in an inside enclosure that was rather humid with waterfalls and ponds. There was a giant macaw sitting against a wall, squawking loudly at the smaller birds who happen to be close-by. In another part of the avian section, I found a beautiful parrot and Woody the Woodpecker!!

I entered an outdoor avian exhibit where a grumpy peacock roamed freely and a crow rose the alarm due to intruders. Then, headed around the building to see the larger birds such as the flamingos, greater rheas, and emus. Leaving the avian area, I came face-to-face to the giant king vultures of Central and South America as well as a few owls.

I, later, crossed a footbridge that spanned over the Pachyderm exhibit and watched one of the female elephants lumbering around after finally being released to enjoy the sun. She was a beautiful, yet dangerous giant, her trunk swaying to and fro as she sniffed around her enclosure.

I, then, saw the wild cats. The lions were out, playing and sunbathing. The male roaring randomly at strangers as he basked in the sun. The sumarian tigers were still inactive, lazily sleeping under some vegetation in their enclosure while the snow leopard slept in a hammock in the trees. All the larger cats were magnificent, inspiring little kids and adults alike to stare at them in awe.

Random exhibits popped up along Olmstead Way such as the small mammal, reptile, and Amazonian exhibits. I peeped into a prairie dog enclosure, laughing at their watchful antics as they realized they have been caught red-handed. I conversed with a volunteer regarding the meerkats and marmosets as they bounced back and forth through their relatively small enclosure.

In the American Trail, I walked among closed exhibits with signs for wolves and sea otter. I never did find their new enclosures and I was slightly disappointed when I didn't get to see them. I passed the sloth bear exhibit as well as the black bear, but saw no one home. Suddenly, I happened about the sea lions and the pelican. One sea lion bark frequently, annoyed that the pelican was sharing its sun while another simply ignored both. A third was in the water, swimming in laps around a rock formation, enjoying the empty pool.

After the American Trail, I went to Amazonia where giant fish swam lazily within their aquarium and turtles paddle furiously as they maneuvered away from the glass-tapping children. An anaconda (or two) grasped a dead rabbit in its coils, waiting for the right moment to have its dinner. Another walk-in exhibit showed vegetation that grows in the Amazon with a surprise escape artist, a small monkey, sat hidden among the branches. Drops of manufactured rain would randomly drip from a leaf to land on a shoulder or head.

Lastly, at the bottom of Omstead way, I went to the farm yard. Unusually deserted, it sits in the back with the more mundane animals. One child, clinging at his mom, refused to go see the cows because it wasn't as cool as the other animals. I, personally, enjoyed the barn yard area, allowing nostalgia for the days when I volunteered as the barnyard zookeeper's aide in the Virginia Zoological Park. I reached over fences and lovingly pet the cows, alpaca, and goats while I talked to the zookeeper who thought that I may have missed my calling. Sometimes, I truly wonder.

I turned around, heading back to the entrance and to the metro, when I noticed that the last vestiges of summer and the beginnings of fall were mingling. I noticed bumble bees among the late summer flower, collecting nectar and buzzing away. I saw the leaves on trees changing to golden yellows and burnt oranges. I climbed the steep hill back on Olmstead Way, enjoying the cool air, when I saw an exhibit that I missed. I met the Przewalski's horse. the only true wild horse in the world. They were shorter than I had thought, but still built of the sleek lines and powerful muscles of our domesticated breeds.

I left the zoo, waving good-bye to to sculptured lion and my young self -- the little girl who dreamed about meeting tigers in the wild. I headed back to the metro station, my mind still stuck in state of nostalgia. The surprisingly blissful solitude ruined by the crush of work exhausted bodies heading home during rush hour. 

To be honest, I think a hike through the zoo was an amazing experience. I've been here before, but never during a time when it wasn't busy. I set a nice pace, had some hill work, and some interesting moments. I recommend that if anyone has lost touch of their young self to take a long walk among one of the top places a child loves to go. Get lost in watching a lion pride interact or watch a gigantic fish lazily swim back and forth. Learn something new or relearn something old. Play on kiddie exhibits, pretend to be a prairie dog. It will remind you of the time when you had no cares and maybe you'll forget about the ones you worry the most about for a few hours. Besides, it's free!